Aesthetics or Laziness: a look at the (under)representation of models of color in New York Fashion Week

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A year ago, just after the Spring/Summer 2014 fashion week in New York City, supermodels Iman and Naomi Campbell spoke out against the lack of diversity in the fashion and modeling industry. Iman remarked to Good Morning America that “there were more black models working [in the 70’s] than [there are] in 2013.” The reason many designers and casting agents tend to give is that they are looking for a particular aesthetic, and that the models they choose that fit into that look just happen to be mostly white. Campbell and Iman denounced this excuse, calling it, “a sense of laziness and they’ve told themselves a story.”

As more people began to question the representation on the runways, there seemed to be an agreement that something had to change. And so, when New York Fashion Week arrived this September, many were eager to see what sort of improvement was made.

And while it has been a step in the right direction, many designers did not include much diversity at all. It has become common to see maybe one or two black models on the runway, who are seen and treated as the Token Black Model(s), a way for designers to wave their hands in the air and proclaim, “We’re not racist, we had so-and-so on our show!!” This behavior needs to change. Diversity does not mean including one or two models of a non-white, or even biracial background.

Diversity, much like the real New York City, means seeing someone like you, no matter what race you are, on the streets (or in this case, on the catwalk.) And while you could argue that the purpose of Fashion Week isn’t to be true to the real New York, and rather to showcase and create alternate worlds, the designer’s world, shouldn’t these worlds include black, Asian, middle eastern, and Latino people? It is not a matter of beauty. This much is apparent, because there are notable WOC who are praised for their beauty. Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, Halle Berry, Jennifer Lopez, Iman, and Lupita Nyong’o have all modeled for makeup commercials and magazines, and been just as successful as any white celebrity would be.

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Halle Berry in a 2010 Revlon Makeup Advertisement

A noteworthy designer who included models of various backgrounds is Diane von Furstenberg, who has been praised for this very act before by Naomi Campbell. This season, she included black models Malaika Firth, Cindy Bruna, Imaan Hammam, Maria Borges, Binx Walton, Naomi Campbell, and black Brazilian model Lais Ribeiro. Additionally, Asian models Fei Fei Sun, Shu Pei Qin, and Ming Xi walked during the show. Although including Lais Ribeiro there were only two Latina models, this is still a great improvement from other designers.

Fei Fei Sun and Shu Qin Pei for Diane Von Furstenberg SS15

Fei Fei Sun and Shu Pei Qin for Diane von Furstenberg SS15

Marc Jacobs also took the call to change seriously, as he included much more diversity than he did last Spring/Summer season. This time, he had models like Joan Smalls, Issa Lish, Hind Sahli, Jing Wen, Veridiana Ferreira, Samantha Archibald, Iesha Hodges, Marihenny Rivera, Mariana Santana, So Ra Choi, Liu Wen, Binx Walton and Imaan Hammam walk for his show, just to name a few!!

Models taking a selfie behind the scenes at  Marc Jacobs' SS15 show

Models taking a selfie behind the scenes at Marc Jacobs’ SS15 show

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Iesha Hodges for Marc Jacobs SS15

Issa Lish and Jing Wen for Marc Jacobs SS15

Issa Lish and Jing Wen for Marc Jacobs SS15

This is a big step for the fashion industry to reform its ways. In shows like Jacquemus, which was a part of this season’s Paris Fashion Week, there were no non-white models. Zero.

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Jacquemus behind the scenes

There needs to be a change.

A striking fact is how little representation Latinas receive on the runway. It is very unlikely to see a Latina model walking for a big name designer, unless they have become an “It-girl”. Perhaps this is because of the body-type that seems to be favored for runway models: stick thin. Many Latinas don’t tend to have tall and thin body types- is this why they’ve been excluded? It is more common for Latina and black women to have bigger hips, but this doesn’t seem to stop some designers like Rick Owens from including racial and body-type diversity. In a ground-breaking Spring/Summer 2014 show in Paris Fashion Week, all the models were from step teams across the U.S. The clothes they wore were specially fitted to their bodies, and created to allow for movement to preform. If what it takes to include more Latina and black models is more body-diversity so be it!! It is equally important for clothes to not be catered to the size 0’s of the world.

This year, some praise-worthy Latinas on the runway in New York were Juana Burga, Issa Lish, Mariana Santana, Lais Ribeiro, Cristina Piccone, and Daniela de Jesus Cosio.

Juana Burga for VFiles SS15

Marc by Marc Jabobs, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in New York

Issa Lish for Marc by Marc Jacobs RTW SS15

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Mariana Santana for Alexander Wang RTW SS15

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Lais Ribeiro for Michael Kors SS15

Cristina Piccone opening Giulietta RTW SS15

Cristina Piccone opening Giulietta RTW SS15

Daniela de Jesus Cosio for John Richmond SS15

Daniela de Jesus Cosio for John Richmond SS15

If you’re still not convinced there needs to be a change, look at Jezebel‘s chart examining racial diversity in New York Fashion Week: 19fp4khtl4r97png

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Latino

[luhtee-noh, la-]

noun, plural Latinos.

  1. a person of Latin-American or Spanish-speaking descent

The dictionary defines Latino as “a person of Latin-American or Spanish-speaking descent,” yet so often Latinos are believed to look a specific way, as if we are a homogenized group.

The belief is that Latinos are light skinned, sort of tan, with brown or black hair and brown eyes. When most people, especially Americans, picture Latinos, it looks something like this:

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a “typical” Latino family

Or they think of well-known celebrities like Shakira, Jennifer Lopez, Sofia Vergara, or Jessica Alba.

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Shakira

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Jennifer Lopez

2014 Tribeca Film Festival - 'Chef' Premiere

Sofia Vergara

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Jessica Alba

What’s interesting is that most of these actresses and musicians are white Latinas or white-passing. Shakira is of Spanish, Italian and Lebanese descent although she was born in Colombia. Jennifer Lopez was born in NYC to Puerto Rican parents, and is white-passing. Sofia Vergara is a white Latina born in Colombia. And Jessica Alba’s father is Mexican-American while her mother is Danish and French. It’s important to note that the most well-known and represented Latinos are white Latinos.

The reality is that there is an incredible amount of diversity within the Latino community, a diversity that is not usually explored or represented. There are not only white Latinos, but also Afro-Latinos, indigenous Latinos, Mestizos, Chicanos, and many more. It is important to recognize the diversity because in countries like Cuba, Brazil, and Haiti there is a very large Afro-Latino population, and misconceptions about who is and isn’t Latino can invalidate people’s identities. For example, according to an Al Jazeera article, “more than 60 per cent of Cuba’s population of 11.2 million people is not white [but instead either black or of mixed race]”.

It’s incredibly damaging to be told that you are “Too black to be Latino” or “Too white to be Latino”, as there is really no such thing. I’ve heard strangers remark to my friends “I don’t understand, you say you’re Latina, but aren’t you black?” This way of thinking erases people’s sense of identity.

The people of Latin America have a rich history, and most Latinos can trace their ancestry back to indigenous peoples, Spain, Portugal, or Africa. No two Latinos have the same background. Instead of picturing the stereotypically whitewashed image of Latinos, picture this:

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